Showing posts with label national mask festival. Show all posts
Showing posts with label national mask festival. Show all posts

Sunday, July 24, 2011

Tribe friends!


Day 42: Our last day

This morning, we got up very sad that this was going to be our last day here. We really wish we had booked at least a few weeks in PNG because we haven’t even scratched the surface of all there is to see here. There is so much beauty and so many things to do that we are really regretting having such a small amount of time here. Sigh.

So we had breakfast at our hotel and then shuttled over to the festival grounds to see more of the performances. We saw some pretty amazing tribal groups perform, including the Goroka Mud Men, the West New Britain tribe, and the East Sepik tribe. The Goroka Mud Men came creeping out of their area, bows and arrows in hand, and large scary clay-mud masks on their head. These Mud Men are known to be extremely stealth as they hunt for their prey! When they had all come out, they showed us how they could make a fire with elements from nature in under 45 seconds!

When they crept out, the West New Britain tribe came out chanting and singing loudly, while the performers did their warrior dance. Apparently, the tribe used to invade nearby villages, kill the rival tribe, and bring them back to their village to feast on – yes, that’s right, the tribes here used to (and some still do) practice cannibalism! They were so coordinated, it was amazing!

Once they had performed a few dances, they left, chanting, and the East Sepik tribe came in singing their traditional songs in colourful outfits with their faces brightly painted in yellow, pink, and orange. This was the first tribe that had men and women performing, and it was beautiful!

The whole event was exactly what we had been waiting to see. It was so spectacular and beautiful and coordinated and intense – we loved every second of it. We had been hoping to sneak in some snorkeling time this morning, but when we saw the tribes beginning to perform, we opted against it.

After the West New Britain tribe performed, we went over to talk to them (we figured we’re not meaty enough to be meal-worthy, haha!) and they were all so excited to befriend us that they dressed us up in some of their traditional pieces and wanted to take pictures with us! They even gave us their phone number and told us to keep in touch! It was so cool – we just made friends with a PNG tribe!

Unfortunately, of the nine tribes that were supposed to perform, those three were the only ones that showed up! So we went back for lunch, and walked over to the market, where sellers sat with their fruits, veggies, and tobacco lined up beautifully along the path. When we went back to the festival grounds, it started raining again! Thankfully, though, the rain subsided a bit, and the same three tribes performed again, along with one more tribe that had arrived during the break. The funniest thing was while our new friends from the West New Britain tribe performed the second time, their tribe leader started waving at us during their performance and pointed to us telling the other tribe members that we were there! After their performance, we went to say bye to them and they wanted to take pictures with us again! They were so nice! We will definitely call them at least once to keep in touch!

Since no other tribes had shown up, the festival wrapped up for the day. So we went back to the resort and had a drink and early dinner with a couple from Los Angeles that we had met and gotten to know in the last few days. Then, the shuttle picked us up to take us to the final event of our trip: the Bainings Fire Dance.

The bus ride took us on a remote road up into the middle of the forest in the pouring rain where one tribe performed the traditional Baining Fire Dance – a sort of coming of age ritual. A large group of men sang and drummed while men dressed in huge masks ran through a huge fire lit in the middle of a small field. It was haunting and mystical to see only what was lit up by the fire, and to watch these masked men run through it with their bare feet. They even carried two huge pythons, which they would then cook and feast on the next day at the festival grounds (we won’t be there for that)!

Once the ritual had almost come to an end, we shuttled back to our hotel, where we were told we had been shifted back to a basic room (not our original room, oddly enough). Boo. We were somewhat disappointed, but we packed our stuff up and went to bed. Early flight out tomorrow. It’s all ending too soon, but we really feel like we created a little family here and we know we will definitely try to come back here as soon as we have the opportunity – and next time, we’ll spend a lot more time! 

Boyna Tuna (thank you), Kokopo! Yaoura (see you)! 

Goroka Mud Med

West New Britain Warrior Dance

Colourful East Sepik performance

Betel nut and mineral lime

West New Britain with the tambuans

 Bainings Fire Dance

Tribes and rain...


Day 41: National Mask Festival

This morning, we woke up around 3:30am, got ready (still no working shower) and took the shuttle to Ranguna Beach where the National Mask Festival kicked off with the traditional Kinavai event. We arrived at the beach and set up our seats under a blanket of darkness, and waited for the dawn to come. All the people from the surrounding villages were out with us, too! The little kids were excited, and everyone surrounded us, waiting in anticipation. Before dawn began to break, we heard them: the two tribes chanting and drumming as they sailed from Matupit Island and approached the shore. In the boat were many men and a tambuan or dukduk – a man dressed in tree-like-looking garb and mask. The two tribes reached ashore at two different spots on the beach and basically competed in their chants. Finally, they approached each other and competed in chanting and dancing on the beach for a short period of time. We were told that the significance of this ritual was to celebrate the arrival of the tribal Micronesian people on these islands.

After the ritual, we shuttled over to the resort for breakfast, and then headed to the festival grounds in the intense heat. There, each tribe came out and sang traditional songs while they danced with their masks on. The masks were pretty cool, and we really enjoyed seeing the different tribes and their variety of masks. At the break, we found out that the second half of the Kinavai ritual was happening in a remote area in the mountains so we asked Valerie, our hotel guide, if the shuttle could take us there (only three of us went). When we finally found the location, it was pouring rain and we had basically missed most of the ritual. We did catch the end of it, though, where the tambuans and dukduks all lined up and shell money (considered equivalent to the Kina – the local currency) was thrown at them. We couldn’t quite get an answer as to the significance of this ritual, but I did find out that women were supposed to keep a fair distance, as this was a ritual for men.

Since we had missed lunchtime, we went straight to the festival grounds and waited for the rain to stop. While we waited, someone in one of the stalls turned up some music and all the kids (and some adults) started up an impromptu dance party in the field! It was so nice to see everyone having so much fun! Life can be so simple and they showed us how to be carefree and happy, just having a great time dancing in the rain! Next time it rains, turn up the music and start dancing.

Sadly, the rain didn’t stop, and the rest of the day’s events were cancelled due to the downpour. So instead, we went back to our hotel to find out that the shower still wasn’t working and that we were being shifted to a (much much nicer) room at no charge. Yay! We finally showered and then went over to the resort for dinner and drinks. Afterwards, we spent some time relaxing in our nice new room before going to sleep.

Earlier in the day, on the ride back from the second Kinavai ritual, we saw a man walking on the street get soaked by a car driving by through a huge puddle… and the man just laughed! Back home, that man would probably have been cursing the driver of the car. That one little event really made us think about our automatic reactions to things. We have so much compared to most people in the world, so why are we so easily angered? Today, before you react to something, just stop and think for a minute, and see if it’s serious enough that you will remember it tomorrow. Because the words you say in anger are like nails in a fence: you can remove them but they will always leave a mark. Remember: we are better off than 80% of the world’s population – that’s something to be thankful for every day.

Kinavai ritual at dawn

Dukduk

Tribal mask

Performance of traditional dance

 Dancing in the rain!